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July-August 2005
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Live a Little |
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The tone is set by the young, stylish staff, and augmented by the cushy burgundy-colored banquettes and dark walls covered with a rotating gallery of the work of local artists. (The restaurant’s only drawback is the somewhat cramped seating in the rear; we’d recommend a spot up front, especially the coveted seats by the picture window.) The food has a homey but careful feel to it, like diner fare being served to a queen. Many of the French- and Mediterranean-inspired dishes come with mashed potatoes, polenta, and mushrooms.
We started with the deliciously light, fried crab raviolis in a sesame sauce served with slivers of carrots and daikon radish ($8), and the warm, gooey goat and feta cheeses with mint, with crisp flatbread and juicy grilled pineapple ($7). The simple pan-seared salmon on roasted-garlic mashed potatoes and fresh tomato salsa ($17) warmed the palate, and the lamb stew special ($19), with porcini mushrooms and slivers of garlic in a brown sauce, offered a rich, rustic flavor. The side order of garlicky greens ($4) was exquisite. Desserts are $6. The crème brûlée was certainly tasty, but what really tickled the kids in us were three miniature sandwiches made from chewy ginger-snaps and fresh peach ice cream.
We happened to catch one of the last meals overseen by long-time chef Alex Jenkins; we assume the high-quality food will continue under Mark Gaudet, who worked with her. We wouldn’t want to lose one of the few places where the un-twenty-somethings are made to feel cool.
~N.P.B