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Fashion: Pulling Your Look Together	Review: Chez Henri
Tastes of the Town Dining Guide	The Harvard Scene
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Chef de cuisine Corrina Mozo in the dining room at Chez Henri. In college she would go back to her room and read cookbooks.

Not many chefs go to cooking school by way of an elite prep school. Given the hip, international flavor of Chez Henri's offerings, it surprised me to learn that chef de cuisine Corinna Mozo graduated from one nearby. In fact, Mozo told me, Chez Henri's kitchen employs a total of three graduates of Phillips Andover. That's where Mozo used to cook for the boys in her father's dormitory (he taught there; I wish I'd gone there). Culinary delights have always been an interest of Mozo's, who in college would go back to her room and read cookbooks. Now, after cooking school and three years in the kitchen at Biba, Mozo's passion is her profession, and her work for chef/owner Paul O'Connell's Chez Henri has reinvigorated the French dining scene on Shepard Street, at the site of the old Chez Jean.

Chez Henri is a lively neighborhood restaurant: vibrant, energetic, even boisterous. Don't come here for a quiet dinner for two-instead, bring your passions, political convictions, your friends-and live it up. The clientele is on the youngish side-generally under 60-and when the dining room is full (as it often is on weekends) many patrons opt to eat at the bar, with its tasty cuban-style food (try the conch fritters or grilled homemade chorizo). If you don't look like the type who's easily offended, the bartender may even give you some of his "ass-on-fire" red hot drops to go with your fritters-a disarming touch that belies the elegance of the place. Beer lovers will enjoy putting out the flames with Pilsner Urquell, on tap.

The food in the dining room is "French with a Cuban twist," and attractively presented-but not excessively so. Dishes look like they are meant to be eaten. The wine lists (one for red, the other for white) are extensive, with selections from all over the world. Our friendly and competent waitress pointed out a few of her favorites to complement our meal.

For starters, try the mango glazed foie gras tostones with avocado slaw, a sumptuous and surprisingly hearty appetizer of tender foie gras slices presented on circles of crisp-fried plantain. Thin wedges of avocado grace the center of the plate. On a warm night, sweet potato vichyssoise with chive crème fraîche and toasted corn is a good choice. Alternatively, sample the selection of Spanish cheeses, served with a dark country walnut bread. The small glass of sweet sherry that comes with it offsets the cheese flavors wonderfully.

For an entrée, I especially enjoyed the duck. Mozo has a particular talent with tangy, citrus, and salsa tinged sauces, perfect with flavorful foods. Alas, a grilled leg of lamb steak, though generously apportioned and delightful tasting, was a bit tough.

From the desert menu, the crème brûlées, one vanilla, the other caramel, are excellent, as is the rich, thin-sliced chocolate cake. And the Grand Marnier soufflé, with its hint of orange, is light, fluffy, and not too sweet. Dinner for two, with a bottle of wine, tax, and tip came to $120. The prix fixe menu, an excellent value, changes weekly. You'll be going back for more.      

~ j.s.

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