Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina, the brother and sister co-owners of Lala Rokh.Photograph by Roswell Angier

The first time I heard the farsi phrase lala rokh was at a friend's wedding. A charming little girl clung to the bride's dress. Looking down, the bride said to her, with obvious affection, "Lala rokh." Literally, the phrase means "tulip face," for which the colloquial English equivalent is "rosy cheeks." A better name for this restaurant I couldn't imagine.

Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina, the brother and sister co-owners of Lala Rokh, have brought foods they remember from their childhood in northwestern Iran to their Beacon Hill restaurant. Little wonder that dining at Lala Rokh is a feel-good experience. If you remember the restaurant formerly occupying these quarters, Another Season, prepare for a shock. Where there was darkness, a warm light now reflects off yellow walls. This is not a color scheme to try at home, but here, with classical Persian music playing quietly in the background, it works. I could feel myself relaxing even before the food was on the table (or the drinks, for that matter).

Too often, dining out can be a noisy, stiff affair. Not so at Lala Rokh, where my wife and I had an altogether soothing meal. I started with kashk-e-bademjan, a smoky roast of mashed eggplant garnished with goat's milk yogurt and mint oil, served warm. Caramelized onions and minced beef add textural variety to the array of flavors. (At a nearby table, a pair of scrubbed-looking young women ordered the same appetizer and found its appearance...unappetizing. Pity them. They could have ordered grilled shrimp with a lemon and shrimp butter sauce, a salad, and a kabab had they wanted merely delicious food.) My wife began with abghur a ash, a "tart semisweet soup of fresh herbs and dried plums thickened with grains." It was complex in flavor, filling, and delicious.

Order your main course with a side of either torshi, which are relishes of vegetables and fruits in white vinegar, or mazze, which are flavorful dishes featuring yogurt, spicy herbs, vegetables, or feta cheese. (For novices, the expert guidance of the waitstaff in making these selections is invaluable.) I had ghormeh sabzi (lamb stew) flavored with lime, steaming greens, and exotic spices, served with Basmati rice. A plate of sabzi, diced sour vegetables and herbs, was the perfect complement to the rich, meaty flavors.

My wife tried joojeh, a skewer of grilled chicken marinated in yogurt, saffron, and lemon, easily the most delicious kabab I've ever tasted. A side dish of mast khiar, a creamy homemade yogurt with cucumbers and herbs, made a cool dressing for the chicken.

For dessert, try the saffron ice cream. I couldn't decide which of the senses--taste, smell, or touch--made this homemade Persian specialty, chunky with frozen cream, so appealing. Ferani, a rice-flour custard flavored with aromatic rose water and topped with fresh fruit, is also an excellent choice.

The meal ended with another pleasant surprise: the bill for two, including a bottle of wine, was $75. With tax, tip, and $5 for parking at the Boston Common Garage, just a short walk away, expect to spend about $95, a bargain for food this good.

~J.S.