Latin Flair

Merengue brings authentic Caribbean/Latin American-style food to Boston.

Rich colors and paintings by Latin American artists add to Merengue’s vibrancy.

MERENGUE

156-160 Blue Hill Avenue

Roxbury, Boston

617-445-5403
www.merenguerestaurant.com

Open 1o a.m.to 10 p.m. daily

Street parking available.

To experience, within a few miles of home, a completely different slice of life through the cuisine of a foreign country, is a wonderful thing. Such was true of our trip from Medford to Merengue. 

This Latin American restaurant bubbles with life, from the walls dressed in fuchsia, royal blue, and aqua to the glowing bar lights, from the giggling children slurping up their caramel flan to the jazzy guitar music, fairly danced to by servers handing out Red Bull and batidos oasis (a thick fruit shake—try the guava) along with the usual cervezas and a nice array of Chilean vinos rojos

Nearly everyone here speaks Spanish, but the menu has English translations of dishes like mofongos (mashed plantains), gandules con coco (coconut with green pigeon peas), and cerdo frita (fried pork). Listening to the language around us, with ceiling fans whirring above and the curtains pulled tight against the cold New England winds, we could have been in Cuba, Puerto Rico—or the Dominican Republic, where owners Nivia and Héctor Piña grew up. “We want people to come inside the restaurant and not be in Roxbury,” Nivia says, “but to feel the colors and be transported back to their homes, to their mom’s and grandma’s cooking—and for other cultures to come in and try our food.” Merengue, the island’s traditional dance form, she says, “is a happy dance with happy music that makes you want to move your body, go on vacation—have some fun.” 

Responding to high demand for their home-style fare, the Piñas expanded Merengue in 2001 into two large rooms that now comfortably seat 90. Dominican food enjoys a rich heritage, starting with the indigenous Taino Indians and reflecting later Spanish and African influences. Every night, Merengue’s diners hail from many of the countries—El Salvador, Haiti, Cape Verde, Colombia, and Puerto Rico —that “share some of the same menu,” Nivia says: “a lot of seafood, coconut, rice and beans, pineapple, and goat.” And, of course, plantains. Green ones, yellow ones, mashed, fried, boiled, and broiled—these starch-heavy fruits “are like bread to us,” she adds.

We had our yellow ones, less sweet than bananas, sautéed ($2.50), along with a sampler ($10) of chewy, bite-sized fried meats, green plantains, and cassava (a mainstay crop for the island). The seafood combination platter ($19), served over soft yellow rice with a smoky coconut sauce, offered fresh lobster, shrimp, mussels, and tender octopus. The juicy red snapper fillet ($13) came smothered in a tangy garlic and oil sauce, just right to open the sinuses, and singed red and green peppers. 

For dessert, please try the tres leches cake ($3.50). Made with condensed, evaporated, and whole milks, this custardy treat is a primal mouthful of motherly love.

 And the next time you start pining for a Caribbean jaunt, forget about booking a cruise or making a reservation at a resort. Come explore the real thing, in a neighborhood near you.  

Read more articles by Nell Porter-Brown

Most popular

The Professor Who Quantified Democracy

Erica Chenoweth’s data shows how—and when—authoritarians fall.

“Do You Find That Reasonable?” Harvard Undergraduates Discuss a Changing University

A student panel grapples—civilly—with shifting policies and differing opinions.

FAS Dean Outlines Preparations for Loss of Federal Funding

“To preserve our mission, we must act now,” Hoekstra says at faculty meeting

Explore More From Current Issue

Nicolo Maestas in a grey suit and wearing glasses sits with her arms on a table

The Harvard health economist not afraid to get in the weeds

An illustration of a green leaf being hit by a beam of light and bouncing off the leaf and then becoming a color prisim

Light-based analysis of botanical collections link plants to Earth’s changing climate.

alt text here

Harvard passes a test of its values, yet challenges loom.