Your independent source for Harvard news since 1898 | SUBSCRIBE

Your independent source for Harvard news since 1898

Tastes and Tables

Bites from Eastern Europe

November-December 2017

Photograph courtesy of Moldova


Photograph courtesy of Moldova

Behind a sunny storefront in Newton is Greater Boston’s premier (if not only) Moldovan restaurant. That country is not much bigger than the state of Massachusetts, but offers a more robust culinary heritage.

Foods and flavors of neighboring Romania and Ukraine, as well as Turkey and Russia, show up on the menu at the Moldova Authentic Restaurant: lamb kebabs and stewed chicken, cabbage salad, stuffed grape leaves, pickled vegetables, and homemade noodles topped with butter and feta cheese. (Appetizers, $6.45-$11.45; entrées, $16.45-$24.95.) And for dessert? Cherry crêpes topped with whipped cream ($9.95).

Owners Artur and Sandra Andronic immigrated to the United States a few years ago, and are keen on cultural exchange. The dining room displays rosy images of Moldovan hills, flowers, and farmland. A black-and-white map of Europe shows the country, shaped like a baby bootie, in red. Some diners may need reminding that the Principality of Moldavia was part of the Ottoman, and then the Russian, empires, but that Moldova (the poorest nation in the European Union) was established in 1991 upon the dissolution of the USSR.

The restaurant fits right in with the Nonantum neighborhood’s mix of unique stores. Before eating, check out the modern home accouterments at Greentail Table, the perfumes, soaps, and mustache wax at Colonial Drug (the relocated Harvard Square mainstay), and the cream puffs at Antoine’s Pastry Shop.

Moldova is open all day. On a winter afternoon, housemade fruit punch, coffee drinks, or a glass of wine or beer pairs well with any of the appetizers—chicken and mushroom crêpes, chicken noodle soup—or try the traditional plăcinte la tigale (pan-fried pie) stuffed with apples: all evidence that big tastes turn up even in small places. 

Harvard Squared

A guide to the arts and culture, history, cuisine, and natural beauty of Cambridge, Boston, and beyond

You Might Also Like:

"Rohan Duck" dish at Talulla

“Rohan Duck” at Talulla

Photograph by Wayne E. Chinnock/Courtesy of Talulla

Boston and Cambridge celebratory restaurants

The bar at Gustavo restaurant

Gustazo’s lively bar zone

Photograph courtesy of Gustazo Cuban Kitchen & Bar

Gustazo in Cambridge restaurant review

Cozy Map Room Tea Lounge with books, bar, and vaulted ceiling

The casual Map Room Tea Lounge offers “bar bites,” like the charcuterie board and tartines
Photograph by Binita Patel

 

The Map Room Tea Lounge at BPL

You Might Also Like:

"Rohan Duck" dish at Talulla

“Rohan Duck” at Talulla

Photograph by Wayne E. Chinnock/Courtesy of Talulla

Boston and Cambridge celebratory restaurants

The bar at Gustavo restaurant

Gustazo’s lively bar zone

Photograph courtesy of Gustazo Cuban Kitchen & Bar

Gustazo in Cambridge restaurant review

Cozy Map Room Tea Lounge with books, bar, and vaulted ceiling

The casual Map Room Tea Lounge offers “bar bites,” like the charcuterie board and tartines
Photograph by Binita Patel

 

The Map Room Tea Lounge at BPL