These Harvard Mountaineers Braved Denali’s Wall of Ice

John Graham’s Denali Diary documents a dangerous and historic climb.

Three climbers seated on a snowy summit, surrounded by clouds, appearing contemplative.

Photograph by John Graham

In 1963, seven members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club became the first—and, so far, only—climbers to ascend the notorious Wickersham Wall, a near-vertical ice cliff on Alaska’s Denali mountain, whose constant rockfalls, frequent avalanches, and hidden crevasses make it one of the most dangerous mountain faces in the world. Among those climbers was John Graham ’64, who went on to a career as an author, adventurer, and diplomat in war-torn places—and who now, at 83, dispenses life lessons on TikTok under the username “Badass Granddad.”

Cleaning out his office a few years ago, Graham stumbled upon a diary he kept during that 1963 climb, as well as a cache of his black-and-white photos from the trip. Last fall, he published them as Denali Diary, available free online at johngraham.org/denali-diary. The writing is spirited, full of his younger self’s “boyish enthusiasm,” as Graham puts it. The photographs—of the laborious ascent, the beautiful and formidable terrain, and the climbers’ down time at camp—are often stunning.

The image above is one of Graham’s favorites, showing (from left) David Roberts ’65, Don Jensen ’65, and Peter Carman ’64 breaking for camp at 12,600 feet, so high up that “you can hardly tell the snow from the clouds,” Graham says. At that moment, the climbers were nine days and one calamitous snowstorm from the summit. “Good news,” that day’s diary entry reads. “The top of the Wall is almost in sight.”

Read more articles by Lydialyle Gibson

You might also like

For This Poet, AI is a Writing Partner

Sasha Stiles trained a chatbot on her manuscripts. Now, her poems rewrite themselves.

How Stories Help Us Cope with Climate Change

The growing genre of climate fiction offers a way to process reality—and our anxieties.

Open Book: A New Nuclear Age

Harvard historian Serhii Plokhy’s latest book looks at the rising danger of a new arms race.

Most popular

How physical appearance influences authority

Cherubic features benefit black male CEOs, but not other groups, underscoring the complexity of social disadvantage.

A Right Way to Teach Reading?

The science, art, and politics of teaching an essential skill

At Harvard Talk, Retired Supreme Court Justice Breyer Defends Shadow Docket

The current law professor also spoke about affirmative action, partisanship, and the limits of “bright-line rules.”

Explore More From Current Issue

Colorful illustrated map of Colonial Cambridge and the Harvard College campus featuring buildings of the campus, houses, Cambridge Common, and the Charles River

250 Years Ago, Harvard Was Home to a Revolution

A look at the sights, sounds, and characters that put the University on the frontlines of history

A man holding a revolver and lantern, wearing a hat and coat, appears to be walking cautiously.

Scoundrels, Then and Now

On con men, Mark Twain, and the powers of the Harvard name

Portrait of a man with white hair, wearing a black coat, arms crossed, thoughtful expression.

The Framer Who Refused to Sign the Constitution

Harvard’s Elbridge Gerry helped draft the U.S. Constitution, but worried it might create a new monarch.